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Rokh Fall 2025: Softening the Edges

Self-Portrait Metallic Jacquard Top Gold

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For designer Rok Hwang, taking a sculptural approach isn’t about creating sharp-edged monoliths but about following the human hand’s shaping of material. A point of reference he named was renowned British studio potter Lucie Rie. “It kind of resonates with the idea of hand touch and a very poetic kind of construction that really assembles the collection,” he said backstage. “This is heavy construction but at the same time, we are breaking it.” If that sounded abstract, think of them as a building, like the under-renovation Parisian townhouse in which Hwang staged his show, which had “a beautiful historical kind of appeal but it’s been stripped down.” Owing to the London-based designer’s proclivity for collecting vintage, he revisited archetypal garments, balancing rigorous cuts with dramatic draped elements. There were showpieces to be sure, but it was precisely dosed and telegraphed a softer, more feminine energy even in more quotidian options. You May Also Like The best examples were a double-breasted coat with a square neckline, little high-necked blousons that could be unzipped vertically and horizontally, and a trench-polka dot dress hybrid. Here and there were also examples of textile manipulations, with tightly packed hand-shredded ruffles painstakingly assembled over the surface of a coat. Elsewhere, he used deconstruction as a way to build new wear options in puffy coats, zippered blousons and even knit sweaters with a detachable lower hem. It played well with his modular concept, with bubble skirts unfolding into sleeker variations thanks to ring clasps. Collection Gallery 41 Photos View Gallery Equally handsome and modular were his menswear silhouettes, a category that now amounts to around 20 percent of the business and growing, Hwang said. They cemented the impression of a brand that is keeping its eye solidly on real-world appeal.

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